Manic about Gelatomania (Geneva, Switzerland)
Gelatomania’s fresh batch of caramel gelato
Happiness is… Ice Cream
It starts with a smooth and delectable fusion of cake batter and vanilla.
Followed by the much anticipated and indescribable rush of salty crystals.
And just as this flavorful experience overwhelms me in the best possible way, the chewy cookie crumbles in your mouth - expertly bringing to the palate an unexpectedly gratifying equilibrium of the tastebuds.
Gelatomania’s SeaSalt flavor has me at HELLO – or, in this case, at GE-LA-TO.
I have always loved ice cream. The addiction has never waned. I can still remember getting ‘Lucky Cream’ at Dairy Queen while on vacation as a child in London, only to discover the infamous ‘99 Flake’ soft serve and promptly establishing it as my favorite. Or the ‘Lemon Cream’ single scoop, an after-school Friday ritual over at Baskin Robbins’ corner shop located in what used to be the ‘Grand Passage’ department store on Geneva’s rue du Rhône.
A quarter of a century later, the ice cream proposition in the city has exploded – and no one offers it better than Gelatomania.
A canvas for culinary creativity
On a hot, sunny day in June, I giddily make my way down to Gelatomania’s Lab in the Acacias neighborhood. I am set to interview Laurent Berney - one of the three partners who took over the company in 2019 - and who, I soon discover, is a fellow ice cream aficionado. As I reach the threshold, I pause at the door with undisguised delight: it is much like entering Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory and therefore impossible to wipe the smile off my face. I am down for an incredible journey within the world of gelato, and from what I have already seen, tasted and heard, it can be nothing short of spectacular.
Gelatomania was born in 1997, in Geneva, Switzerland, to an Italian father who established it as “authentic Italian gelato”. In keeping with its Italian heritage, the founder created a green and red logo, set-off by stark white walls and a bright neon light. The gelato is a hit; this little piece of Italy in Switzerland appeals to the Genevois, and three additional shops soon open their doors. Truth be told, to this day, many gelaterias in Italy still harbor this overtly colorful, joyful decor, complete with matching plastic scoops and spoons. It’s completely outdated and yet very much symbolic of traditional Italian parlors.
Fast forward 22 years later. Gelatomania’s owner is ready to sell and consults Berney & Associés to advise him on the transaction. Enter Laurent Berney, who due to his ample experience in F&B (food & beverage), reviews the file. What happens next was written in the stars. Laurent is smitten. He’s an ice cream lover by birth, and the prospects within the frozen dessert category appeal to him immediately.
But something else tugs at his entrepreneurial soul.
Unlike most lines of work, a certain natural equilibrium prevails in the business of ice cream. It responds to a clear-cut timeline: “there is a time to reflect and prepare, a time to operate, and a time to rest.” This unique ‘temporality’ is immensely enticing to a man as busy as Laurent. He’s worked in an always-on sector for the better part of 35 years, so this balanced approach is certainly tempting.
The epicurean in him is hooked.
It doesn’t take long for Laurent Berney, David Cardellini and Alexis Kern to partner up and purchase the company. They opt to keep the name “Gelatomania”. There is, after all, equity in the label, so there is no harm in harnessing its existing popularity. In an attempt to better understand production requirements, the trio also agree to maintain the status quo for the first season under their management until they learn the ropes.
And then the brand undergoes a sensational overhaul.
“In the universe of ice cream, there is a time to reflect and prepare, a time to operate, and a time to rest.”
A lesson in brand mastery
What strikes me immediately about Laurent Berney is his eloquence and precision. The Gelatomania brand and world are very clear in his head. So, when he speaks about the importance of customer experience, it is not just another buzzword. Like his alter ego HR role at Berney & Associés, he is invariably attuned to the sensibilities of the human spirit and emotional management. And what is the secret to seamless customer experience if not the ability to enthrall you by preempting what engages you before you do? “There are many important things in the long-term vision of the brand that I hope to achieve. Certainly, the Gelatomania product is key. But we have to be able to go beyond the product and enter its universe”.
This universe is cleverly captured in the brand’s relentless pursuit of “delight & conviviality”, supported by its “local production for local enjoyment” mantra, and underpinned by three fundamental pillars:
1. Made in Switzerland
Gelatomania certainly leverages the principles and recipes of traditional Italian gelato as a starting point. The brand, however, is unmistakably Swiss, well-entrenched in its “quartier” habitat and a staunch supporter of the power of local community. Authenticity is the key driver here, crowned by a proud advocacy of Swiss milk. “We believe in cow milk, we love it! I love Switzerland and I’d be distraught if there were no more cows in the fields! Promoting Swiss cow milk is a must”.
2. Homemade, all-natural ingredients
Gelatomania has banished any industrial components from its ingredients list. Commercial bestsellers such as Nutella or Toblerone are never used. Instead, anything that can be, is homemade. From cookies to caramel, everything is prepared from scratch at the lab. And when certain ingredients cannot be produced in Switzerland, the team ensures they are equitably sourced. Quality rules!
3. Inspired innovation
Gelatomania is an ardent believer in innovation and in stimulating the senses from unexpected sources. Its inspiration comes as much from borrowing cues from non-food categories as it does from fellow purveyors of ice cream around the globe. This also translates into surprising collaborations with likeminded food artisans, creating snug camaraderie within the Genevan catering industry. I’ll push it a notch further and say it’s about the courage and humbleness it takes to venture into the unknown.
“If you make everything bold, nothing is bold” (Art Webb)
No doubt the most tangible element in Gelatomania’s redesign is its new visual identity.
It is beautiful.
Appreciating the elegance of its understated and minimalist approach doesn’t require a trained eye for aesthetics. It is a genuine example of good taste – literally.
While the brand has chosen to nod to its Italian heritage through the keeping of the Gelatomania name, the design brief is to create a stylish and contemporary, savvy brand that’s anchored locally and that can act as the backdrop to a sensorial and very defined experience. It is primarily about the timelessness of simplicity.
“We wanted to bring excellence to the brand, and so we made deliberate choices in the selection of our creative partner, in the typeface, in the materials we used to create a “boutique” experience.”
In this visual rebirth, there is both strength and subtleness in the simplicity of the all-caps sans-serif black logo on a pristine white background. The color palette is pared down to light neutral pinks, forest green and the warmth of gold, enhanced by natural wooden counters and speckled floors. “For us”, states Laurent, “color comes from our ice cream - it shouldn’t derive from anything else.”
This pronounced refinement, while reflecting the owners’ personal taste, explains the appointment of a branding agency entrenched in luxury goods and architecture. “We wanted to bring excellence to the brand, and so we made deliberate choices in the selection of our creative partner, in the typeface, in the materials we used to create a ‘boutique’ experience”, he continues.
Gelatomania’s distinguishable brand language is astutely articulated across its six locations. There is always “a line, a terrazzo, often a counter dressed in wood, comfortable lighting”, all recognizable design features that immediately connect the consumer with the brand’s sense of place. But the label intends to make this connection even more personal and has introduced bespoke components for each boutique. “There are things you will find in one shop, not the other, and this will keep changing. It’s about enhancing the bond between customers and their local gelateria and encouraging them to return to their special place.”
What dazzles me most about the Gelatomania visual identity, is that it is dosed to perfection. In its quest to showcase its exquisitely flavorful world, it has succeeded in creating a unique and enduring look & feel that has redefined the experience as we know it.
Couleur locale meets local psyche
Since taking over, the partners have added two more boutiques to their name, bringing the Gelatomania offering to six within the city of Geneva. Rather than replicating the same (albeit memorable) experience in every outlet, they customize it by tapping into the individual area’s vibe.
The largest store in Bourg-de-Four, for example, is the brand’s flagship setting. On the ground floor of a beautifully restored building that was originally a delicatessen, this Gelatomania caters to an ongoing flow of tourists and local residents. With its double display counter and high ceilings, it provides ample space to examine the list of flavors posted on the entrance wall or directly in the freezer – a perfect example of fluid design. On warmer days, the queue of excited customers happily spills out into the lively pedestrian area, and you will often hear them debating which flavor they will opt for this time round. It’s a busy venue that beckons to passers-by Monday through Sunday, leveraging the Old Town’s repute for leisurely discovery and hidden treasures.
Heading over to Plainpalais and the brand’s outlet in the Quartier des Bains, the atmosphere reflects the hipper side of the local scene. The surrounding art galleries and Geneva University make this venue a magnet for a younger crowd, prompting Gelatomania to fit right in by introducing artistic programs.
The second new venue to open its doors is the family oriented Gelatomania in Champel’s rue Peschier. Here the atmosphere is that of a peaceful Sunday stroll; the gelato is served to older couples and families with children, sales assistants adding a dollop of patience and humor to the combo for the most relaxing of exchanges. I am told the parlor will soon feature an outdoor terrace to complete the wellbeing experience.
If the lakeside is your soft spot and you’ve spent the day under the sun, the Eaux-Vives counter is your next stop for a refreshing and revitalizing ice cream cone. For a more urban experience where street art meets hip hop, head over to Gelatomania’s outlet in the Pâquis, by far the busiest on summer evenings. And if you’re lucky enough to live in Carouge or merely enjoying the lull of the former Sardinian town, the gelateria off the main square is exactly where you can kick back and unwind.
Milk and sugar and cream … oh my
What is it about Gelatomania ice cream that surpasses all others?
First of all, there’s the widespread appeal of the frozen treat in general.
It is loved by all. Children. Teenagers. Adults. Parents. Grandparents. How many joyful childhood memories were made at the ice cream parlor? We all have a favorite flavor, a priceless recollection involving a strawberry popsicle at the beach. “The beauty of such an indulgence is that it’s accessible to all”, says Laurent. “A family might not be able to go out for dinner to a restaurant, but a trip to buy an ice cream cone is certainly possible.” This on its own confers to Gelatomania its enchanting status.
Secondly, selecting your flavor is a big part of what makes a visit to the gelateria so thrilling! You get to choose from countless flavors, from the more traditional to the über creative, tasting a spoonful in the process before ordering.
Lastly, but certainly not least, is the anticipation that builds when you come across the unexpected… a startling twist in the recipe, an unusual ingredient you are unable to identify, or the novelty of a completely new mix you have never heard of before.
The brand has skillfully taken these three elements and woven them into an unparalleled offering. I listen to Laurent with fascination as he introduces what I can only refer to as “Gelatomania’s Fine Flavors”.
The Gelatomania frozen delights portfolio encompasses 19 fixed flavors that are decided at the beginning of every season. These feature the brand’s ‘classics’; however, the list is adapted each year to reflect consumer preferences. (For example, the divine Sea Salt flavor I mentioned earlier became a classic this year due to its phenomenal success - pushing Coco to the ‘specials’ category). In parallel, the team brainstorms the ‘Specialties’ calendar, namely 6-7 additional flavors per month, that are typically introduced on Wednesdays and Saturdays. ‘Specials’ include seasonal favorites that return every year and limited editions such as the infamous ‘collaborations’ and ‘this week only’ variants. Both types are made in small batches, are available just the once and for as long as stock lasts.
Gelatomania’s ‘Specialities’ calendar for 2023
Flavors menu @ Gelatomania Champel
I ponder whether there have been changes in consumer attitudes in the 5 seasons they’ve been active. When I mention this to Laurent, I can tell it’s a significant matter and one they have previously taken the time to carefully consider. “Certainly. Sugar. Vegan. Lactose-free. We are very mindful of these concerns, it’s the general trend”, he tells me. “It’s important to note, however, that sugar is not just about the taste. It’s key for texture and consistency. We are very careful about finetuning our ice cream, adding acidity or a bit of salt, so it isn’t cloying”. He reiterates the company’s take on Swiss milk and specifies that all sorbets are vegan and therefore an acceptable solution for Vegans and so forth. “Ice cream gives pleasure. There’s cream, milk, sugar, sometimes butter from the pastry. Yes, it’s calorific, so enjoy it moderately, without compromising on quality and taste.”
I subsequently question Laurent about nomenclature and what drives him to name each marvelous creation. “We favor simplicity! In the early 2000’s, it was all the rage to use elongated and complicated labels, but today it seems hardly necessary”. I applaud this practical decision and note how on-brand it is with their overall temperate approach. “If anything, we tend to anglicize as sometimes it’s just clearer in English. ‘Sel de mer’ doesn’t have the same ring as ‘Sea Salt’!”, he continues to illustrate his thinking. “What matters is getting close to the lingo our customers use. For my 13-year-old daughter, it’s ‘cookie’, not the French equivalent ‘biscuit’.”
Absolutely. I couldn’t agree more. The secret ingredient in all this is remaining relevant to your audience.
It is no coincidence that ‘Cookies’ happens to be one of Gelatomania’s star flavors.
“Life is made of encounters” (Laurent Berney)
Truth be told, when I first read about Gelatomania’s flavor collaboration a few summers ago, I was besotted. What a brainwave! I remember thinking the company would trailblaze its way to new heights in record timing. And sure enough, Gelatomania’s fans impatiently await these ‘collaborations’ every season.
A new encounter. Love at first taste. Surprise and delight. They are the stepping stones that pave the way to creating these specialties. Let’s take the latest masterpiece. “I believe that Renou has reinvigorated pastry in Geneva, so I was interested in teaming up to create a unique flavor”, says Laurent. The rules of the game are clear: Gelatomania buys the hero ingredient from Renou (in this case, the ‘croissants’). They prepare the ice cream until both parties are happy with the end-result. No further financial commitments are pursued. He concludes with: “The ultimate objective is to bring our communities together”.
As far as I am concerned, Gelatomania has just perfected the blueprint for the future of co-branding.
The secrets of their success
The “temporality” mentioned by Laurent intrigues me and warrants a deeper dive into the organizational intricacies of this business.
I love the finality and non-negotiable aspect of the off-season period: We are closed from mid-October to mid-January. Full-stop.
How civilized and how liberating.
The busy production period usually occurs between mid-March and mid-October. It is preceded by 2-3 months of complete immersion in the creative groundwork required to successfully produce and operate. So, when it’s time to close shop for the winter season, a true mental and physical break can occur, releasing space for replenishment.
(Although this set-up certainly isn’t exclusive to ice cream producers, Gelatomania walks the talk and I commend them for this).
By mid-January, the immersion phase - the richest and most rewarding of stages in my opinion - can commence. This is when brainstorming is at its peak: new ideas are concocted, recipes are tested and finessed, ingredients that require longer lead times are prepared and frozen (such as pastries, cookie dough etc.). This is also when planning for orders, deliveries, production and overall logistics is most critical. The March cut-off date depends on the weather – which, as we all know, is often a moving target in Geneva!
Once the boutiques are back in business, production is in full swing. Sticking to the flavors calendar is possible as long as top-quality ingredients are available. In this there is no compromise. “Until end-May, things can change, but once we hit July/August, there is little room for improvisation. The ice cream you eat was completed at the very most 2-3 weeks prior, which means that the Lab produces 12-14 different flavors every single Monday – this entails a great deal of work”, Laurent confides proudly.
I can certainly vouch for the intense activity behind the scenes since I have the privilege of meeting the dream team behind every delectable gelato – Claudio (head of production and ‘maître glacier et pâtissier’, eg. master pastry and ice cream maker), his brother Luigi (‘maître glacier’, eg. master ice cream maker) and their collaborator Steven.
As we exchange a few words – I am cautious not to interrupt their busy schedule – I am touched by their humbleness, sense of duty and above all the great pride they take in their work. At 11AM, I find myself already savoring two scoops of succulent caramel (improved recipe I am told) and stracciatella ice cream, marveling at what it would be like to brunch here every day…
Claudio, Steven & Luigi @ the Gelatomania Lab in Acacias
The sensorial journey through the world of Gelatomania has once again proven the power of unpretentious branding. In these times of excess and exaggeration, the brand’s minimalist visual identity, its unconventional flavors, artisanal collaborations, and overall avant-gardist creativity, soothe and seduce me.
Moreover, when I contemplate the brand’s equity, I find that an enormous part of its appeal lies in its inobtrusive, discerning hospitality. Its uncalculated generosity. This permeates through the substantial size of an ice cream serving, the satisfying goodness in a spoonful of gelato, the spontaneous smile imparted by a staff member.
So, when Laurent tells me how much he’s been inspired by the age-old adage “one must first give in order to receive”, I marvel at how effortlessly Gelatomania seems to have adopted this approach in its stride.
Gelatomania, I tip my hat to you.
*********************
I am now back in Geneva and have held off for as long as I can the urge to bite into a scrumptious cone of gelato at Bourg-de-Four. It is heavenly and more than delicious, worth every calorie and every step I will need to take to burn it off.
Life is in these moments of pure bliss.
I hope you will join me.
Gelatomania
Place du Bourg-de-Four 2
1204 Geneva
Switzerland
Website: gelato-mania.ch
Instagram: gelatomania_geneve
